GSM means grams per square metre how much one square metre of fabric weighs. For sweatshirts, 280–400 GSM is the usual range, with most mid-weight options landing near 300. Higher isn't automatically better, and for most Indian cities it's actively worse. Every Thomas Scott sweatshirt sits in this range for a reason worth understanding.
Think about how you bought your last phone. You compared chipsets, battery capacity, refresh rates, camera sensors. You probably watched a comparison video. Then think about how you bought your last sweatshirt: you looked at a photograph and checked the price. That gap is strange, because fabric specifications tell you far more about how a garment will perform than a product photo ever can. The Thomas Scott winter range and the wider store list this information for exactly that reason.
The Spec Sheet, Explained
Four numbers and terms tell you almost everything.
|
Spec |
What it means |
Why it matters |
|
GSM |
Grams per square metre fabric weight |
Determines warmth, structure and drape |
|
Knit structure |
French Terry, fleece, or jersey |
Determines breathability and next-to-skin feel |
|
Cotton type |
Combed, ring-spun, or open-end |
Determines softness and how it ages |
|
Composition |
Cotton and polyester percentages |
Determines shrinkage, stretch and pilling |
Two sweatshirts can share an identical GSM and behave completely differently, because fibre type, knit and finishing all change the outcome. This is the single most misunderstood point about fabric weight, and it's why GSM alone is a starting point rather than an answer.
What GSM Range You Actually Need
|
GSM |
Feel |
Best for |
|
240–280 |
Light, layerable |
Bengaluru, Pune, Hyderabad, Mumbai evenings, gym wear, transitional weather |
|
280–320 |
Mid-weight, the everyday default |
Most Indian cities, most of winter, layering under a jacket |
|
320–380 |
Substantial, structured |
North Indian winters, outdoor evenings, standalone warmth |
|
380–450+ |
Heavy fleece |
Genuinely cold conditions, hill stations, high-altitude travel |
The mistake most buyers make: assuming heavier is better value. A 420 GSM fleece bought in Mumbai stays in the wardrobe. A 300 GSM mid-weight gets worn forty times. Cost per wear rewards the lighter option decisively.
For most of urban India, 280–320 is the range that earns its place.
French Terry vs Fleece
These are the two knit structures you'll encounter, and the difference is significant.
French Terry has looped yarn on the inside face. The loops trap a little air without blocking airflow, so it breathes well and dries faster. It layers cleanly and works across a wider temperature range. This is the better structure for most Indian conditions.
Fleece has the inside face brushed so the loops are broken into a soft nap. It feels warmer immediately and traps more heat, but it breathes less and pills more readily over time.
Practical rule: French Terry for versatility and anything above roughly 15°C. Fleece for genuine cold and standalone warmth.
Cotton Type Changes Everything
Same GSM, same knit, different cotton a completely different sweatshirt after ten washes.
Combed cotton has short fibres and knots removed before spinning. Smoother, softer, longer-lasting.
Ring-spun cotton is spun more tightly into a finer, stronger yarn. The premium option, and it resists pilling better.
Open-end spun cotton is faster and cheaper to produce, with a rougher feel and shorter life. This is what you're generally getting at the very bottom of the price range.
If a product page states combed or ring-spun cotton, that tells you something the photograph can't.
Reading Composition
100% cotton: breathes best, softest, shrinks most, holds shape less well over time.
Cotton with 10–20% polyester: the common blend. Better shape retention, faster drying, less shrinkage, marginally less breathable.
High polyester content: cheap, holds colour, traps heat and moisture. Fine for a gym layer, poor for all-day wear.
For a sweatshirt you'll wear repeatedly, a cotton-dominant blend is usually the sensible compromise.
Common Mistakes
Treating GSM as a quality score. It measures weight. A poorly spun 400 GSM fleece is worse than a well-made 300 GSM French Terry.
Buying for the coldest week of the year. Buy for the twelve weeks you'll actually wear it, not the three days it might be genuinely cold.
Ignoring knit structure entirely. It affects comfort more than weight does across most of the year.
Assuming a heavier sweatshirt lasts longer. Durability comes from yarn quality and stitch density, not from grams.
Expert Tip
If a product page won't tell you GSM, knit structure or cotton type, that silence is information. Brands confident in their fabric publish the numbers. When you're comparing two sweatshirts at similar prices, the one that discloses its specification is usually the better buy and you can verify it against what arrives.
FAQs
What GSM is best for a sweatshirt in India?
For most Indian cities, 280–320 GSM is the practical range warm enough for winter evenings, light enough to layer under a jacket, and comfortable across a long season. North Indian winters justify 320–380. Anything above 400 is genuinely useful only in cold hill regions or high-altitude travel.
Is higher GSM always better in a sweatshirt?
No. GSM measures weight, not quality. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel and perform very differently depending on fibre type, knit structure and finishing. A well-made 300 GSM French Terry outperforms a poorly spun 400 GSM fleece on comfort, breathability and lifespan.
What is the difference between French Terry and fleece?
French Terry has looped yarn on the inside face, so it breathes well and dries faster, making it more versatile across temperatures. Fleece has that inside face brushed into a soft nap, which feels warmer immediately but traps more moisture and pills more readily. French Terry suits most Indian conditions better.
Does GSM affect how long a sweatshirt lasts?
Less than most people assume. Lifespan depends more on yarn quality, stitch density and how you wash it. Ring-spun or combed cotton resists pilling far better than open-end spun cotton at the same weight. Cold washing and skipping the dryer extends life more than any weight choice.
How do I check the GSM of a sweatshirt before buying?
Read the product specifications on the page reputable brands publish it. If GSM isn't listed, look for knit structure and cotton type as secondary signals. When none of the three appear anywhere on the listing, treat that as a reason to compare elsewhere before buying.